salty
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Post by salty on Apr 25, 2015 20:17:43 GMT
I am making a 1/32 scale front loader with a playstation 3 controller to control it. The playstation controller connects via Bluetooth so I was planning to get a usb Bluetooth dongle to plug into an arduino. The only way that I know how to do this is to plug the dongle into a usb host shield that is attached to an arduino uno. My problem is that an uno is too big to fit in a tractor nicely. I've been looking for a usb host shield for an arduino pro mini but I can't find any. But I did find an arduino nano atmega328 that has six pwm ports which will be enough for all the mechanisms. I don't know anything about the nano and I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out if the nano would work like a normal arduino uno or pro mini, or what I would need to do to make it work. If so, I also want to know if I could attach a Bluetooth dongle to the nano or some other way to connect Bluetooth to it to attach motors and servos to so I can make it run with a playstation 3 (dualshock 3) controller. Thanks Edit: I found this USB host controller board from Amazon but I am still new to arduinos and I don't know if it could be controlled directly by a PS3 controller. I've seen other configurations that connect the controller to a pc then the pc to the rc car but I just want a direct connection that goes directly from the controller to the tractor. www.amazon.com/WaveShare-SL811HST-AXC-SL811HS-Evaluation-Development/dp/B00KM6XKRM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1430070445&sr=8-3&keywords=USB+host+controller+board |
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tomek
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Post by tomek on Apr 26, 2015 18:30:04 GMT
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Post by RC Tractor Guy on Apr 27, 2015 10:05:22 GMT
I don't know anything about using the ps3 controller with the Arduino but I came across this shield for the pro mini if it helps www.lipoly.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=209709&language=en&zenid=ftb80aq6eojevk0bk865v2r6r0I think a nano is just a pro mini with the FTDI part used for programming built into it, I use the pro mini because you don't need that stuff after you've programmed the module so no point finding space for it in the model and it also wastes power even though you aren't using it. The board you suggest on Amazon doesn't mention Arduino anywhere so I'd be reluctant to chance that as it might be tricky to get working with an Arduino, no guarantee anyone else has used it before you. I first taught the same as tomek because I have one of those HC-05 modules to control from my tablet but after a little reading it seems the HC-05 can't be the kind of master the ps3 remote requires, looks like you need the dongle to get control. |
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salty
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Posts: 6
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Post by salty on Apr 29, 2015 2:39:32 GMT
Thanks, after considering it, i will probably go with this option. Since I'm going to use a pro mini now, my main problem is putting everything together. This is my first build and also my first experience with arduinos... I can handle the controller part because it is pre-built but if anyone can help me figure out if all my parts will work together and how to put them together that would be great. I also need help determining a battery to use. I would like to try to stay away from nicd because they have a problem with only charging to a certain point and lipo batteries because they are are too complicated for me. Here's my list (other than LED's, Resistors, Wires, breadboard) -Tamiya 12 speed gearbox (for the driving axle) -Arduino Pro mini 3.3V/8MHz -Dual Motor Driver 1A TB6612FNG (quantity 2) -Siku John Deere 6820 MFD w/ loader (model it will all fit into) -SG90 9G Mini Servo (steering servo and lift for rear attachment) (quantity 2) -Bluetooth 2.0 Adapter Dongle 30000212 -DC 3V mini electronic motor Planetary Gearbox 140 RPM (for lifting arm and bucket)(quantity 2) -USB host shield for Arduino pro mini 3.3V Please let me know if this should all work and if I am missing anything Thanks! |
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Post by RC Tractor Guy on Apr 29, 2015 9:44:14 GMT
I was just looking at that link again, does the usb shield leave any pins free for you to control the servos and motors? You may need a second arduino.
I like your ideas for the planetary gears in the loader, that should look good when you get it going.
Not to put a downer on this but that is a lot of electronics to fit into the model, you might be shocked by how much space the drive motor and steering servo are going to take up alone. Personally I think the loader is the coolest part of the model so if you could think of an attachment that would work well permanently attacked to the rear of the tractor you could hide the electronics in there, wouldn't need the rear attachment servo and you'd have loads of space for any battery you want. The siku kuhn fertilizer spreader has loads of space but might look slightly out of place. Alternatively you could black out the windows in the cab amd fill that full of electronics but it might not look great. Just my opinion, without seeing it all in front of me it is hard to tell so I'd say get all the parts you need and then decide what you think will fit.
I only use lipo batteries so I can't help with your battery dilemma but whatever you choose you'll probably need full charge voltage of around 4.2 V since that is what the lipos fully charge to and they work fine for me.
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salty
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by salty on Apr 30, 2015 1:27:08 GMT
I think the usb shield does leave all the pins free but they will all have to be female connections because the arduino mounts on top of the shield (which i've never seen before but then again i'm still pretty new at this). If it turns out that it doesn't work out I will buy another adruino but hopefully i won't have to. I think I will end up blacking out the windows because that doesn't bother me or I just won't attach a mounting hitch servo and only use trailers that don't use the 3 point hitch. I want to use lipo batteries but I have no clue on how to use one. I know that you're not supposed to overcharge them or else they will "puff" or burn in bad cases. But, I would be willing to buy a lipo charger if I did. But my big concern is that when I did some research almost everything told me to not allow the power to drop below a certain point. I don't know why that is but thinking about it, most of the videos were for airplanes and they might have been so that the plane wouldn't loose power and fall. My first thought was worst case in that if they lost power, they couldn't be charged again. I don't know if I'm making much sense but if you get my point can you give me a brief explanation on lipos. Also, could you tell me which ones you use in your tractors and which lipo (and voltage regulator or anything else I might need for it) you would recommend for my build please?
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Post by RC Tractor Guy on Apr 30, 2015 10:00:39 GMT
Just had a look there, I think it uses the ICSP bus which is pins 10, 11, 12 and 13 so that leaves 14 -16 pins free I think. You need 6 pins for the loader motors, 3 for the drive motor, 1 for the steering servo, 1 for the lifting arm servo so 11 pins total leaving at least 3 free for LEDs which is more than enough, you could always just wire the LEDs on constantly if you were stuck for pins anyway no big deal. Yes the lipos are a little tricky and I haven't fully figured out how to properly use them but I'm of the opinion if you don't try you'll never figure it out. I have had one or two puff out and I'm not sure why, I think I might have overly discharged them and they puffed up after I charged them next but they may have been crap brands, I would have bought them on ebay. Also some have charge protection built but not sure if that protects againt overcharge or what really. I've been looking at code to measure the Arduino vcc pin and monitor it so that the battery doesn't get overly discharged in the tractor, I haven't built that into the code yet as it still needs some work. I use single cell lipos which are harder to find a charger for, I use a charger I got with a small rc helicopter. It looks like this single cell usb charger. It seems to work well, I use it with my John Deere 8360RT and I've never had any trouble with that model. I still wouldn't charge it when I'm out of the room just in case it did catch fire. I also have 7.4V double cell lipos which are from larger helicopters and I have the chargers that came with those. Since I bought those in a reputable shop here I'm not worried about those batteries or chargers giving trouble. I think you need a 7.4 volt battery because your shield requires 5V for the usb so you would presumably use the voltage regulator on the pro mini to power it but you should check that out, make sure you don't need a separate supply for the shield. You should probably price a 2S lipo charger and battery in your local hobby shop and go with that if it isn't too expensive. That way you'll at least know it will have to have passed some regulations in your country for them to sell it so should be fairly reliable and if it's not you can bring it back. |
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salty
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by salty on May 2, 2015 15:17:12 GMT
Ok, I think I understand. I found a 2s 7.4v 20c lipo battery pack and a compatible charger I will use. But now I dont know if I should get a pro mini 3.3v or 5v. I want to get the 5v because it is cheaper (where Im buying from) and I think all around it will be better for me to use but the shield says 3.3v. I don't know if that is how much it operates on or if it implies that it is supposed to be mounted on a pro mini 3.3v. Other than that I think I am ready to place my purchase and start my first build!
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Post by RC Tractor Guy on May 4, 2015 22:35:25 GMT
Well 5 volt arduino pro mini is the norm so I'd guess they'd design their shield to work with it so you are probably safe with the 5 volt version. Also the 3.3 volt is going to be more expensive because its not what most people want and so is probably manufactured in smaller runs so I doubt you'll find 3.3V as cheap as 5V anywhere, I haven't yet anyway.
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